This
article was first published in Peolwane, Air Botswana’s in-flight magazine (August
2013)
If you are one of the many
whose idea of inner city Johannesburg is a crime-infested, wayward, concrete
jungle to be avoided, look again. Gauteng is getting a massive face – and
branding – lift
My
vantage point within the descending aircraft made me gawk with mounting
anticipation. In the broad periphery of my vision was a cornucopia of modern
structures interspersed by patches of green spaces, and dazzling networks of
roads that flowed with dense traffic. The setting sun spilled a golden
illumination over every single component of the metropolitan below, creating a
jaw-dropping fairytale sight.
This
did not look like the city where - once upon a time - I had lived. It was my
first aerial view of the ‘City of Gold’. With my face pressed against the small
windowpane, I yearned to feel the whooshing air above this pulsating concrete
jungle. Like an eclectic current, excitement hummed through my nerves.
For
a country boy from a hot, little town up in the Okavango, the cold in
Johannesburg smacked me with a sudden, almost shocking surprise. Only then did
it dawn on me that this was the winter season.
Stepping
out of the aircraft and onto the paving, I realised that I was in an entirely
different space, with every facet a direct contrast to my home town. I had just
landed at Oliver Tambo International Airport, the largest and busiest in
Africa. The Joburg City Tourism Association (JCTA) had invited me to an
occasion they dubbed a ‘Weekend in the City’; and, according to the invite, I
was going to be shown the real deal of Johannesburg. It was a weekend
aimed at casting away stereotypical notions that the city is a bubble of crime
and waywardness.
My
mode of transport from the airport was the remarkable, magical Gautrain – a
superlative high-speed rail service that links the airport with Johannesburg
and Pretoria. Riding the spotlessly clean rail car, I experienced total safety
and guaranteed efficiency.
It
was dusk when I disembarked the train at Park Station, the city already glowing
up. Almost a decade ago, as a student here, I used to frequently walk the
streets of Braamfontein. And since my
hotel was a short walking distance from the Gautrain station, I schlepped my
luggage and walked to the hotel. I needed no map. This was what used to be my
territory for five long years. I could feel the familiar rhythm of a city too
far away from sleeping. Colour semaphored and activity swarmed in the streets.
Suddenly, I felt an unsullied belonging to this place.
I joined the rest
of the media invitees at The Reef Hotel, in the city’s Corporate Mining
District. Speaking to members of the media and other stakeholders, JCTA’s
Gerald Garner gave a warm welcome and explained the need for JCTA to embark on
a move to brand the inner city of Johannesburg. Gerald is a
registered tour guide and author. He manages the JCTA secretariat on behalf of
the members of the association. JCTA is an organisation or club of businesses
with a stake in inner-city tourism.
“In recent years,
the inner city has undergone a drastic revival. In the past, Johannesburg was a
city with an emphasis on its arterial links in the suburbs, with the centre
regarded as risky, deadbeat and unattractive by some. We are here to promote
the inner city of today, a new and dynamic place worthy of celebration,”
explained Garner.
“We want you all to experience the thrill of it.
And so, we’ll be walking you through the inner city. We want you to discover
its energetic heart beat and its tranquil havens – ranging from nature areas
and parks to cafes on sun-drenched sidewalks.
“Many people who have recently
taken such walkabouts have left with their preconceived impressions shattered,
and with a revived mental map and commensurate image of a city forever
changed.”
Garner
displayed an immense love for Johannesburg. He is author of the book Spaces
and Places 2.0 – Joburg Places, published in 2012 by Double G Media (Pty)
Ltd. Indeed all JCTA representatives had gone all the way to host the media, in
a bid to showcase and promote the previously shunned inner city.
Together
with Johannesburg Development Agency (JDA), Joburg Tourism and Gauteng Tourism,
JCTA will host a week long extravaganza this month; its aim is putting the
inner city firmly on the map as the must-see experience and must-visit precinct
of greater Johannesburg, the vibrant heart of Joburg and the melting pot of
Africa.
The
festival also intends to facilitate a perception change amongst residents of
Johannesburg, and in turn, amongst visitors, giving them confidence to visit
the dynamic inner city and to explore everything on offer there.
According
JCTA, the festival will target the inner city corporate workforce, many of whom
drive to their office buildings in the morning and home in the evening, without
ever exploring the city. It will reach out to the inner city residents,
especially the upwardly mobile living in the 50 000 apartments refurbished
from previously disused office and industrial spaces in the last five years.
As
for Joburg’s suburbanite population, from Sandton to Soweto, many of whom are
wary and sceptical about visiting the inner city, the festival aims to show
them that this is a throbbing heartbeat, with numerous places of high
significance. All these delights were presented during the ‘Weekend in the
City’ media activities.
During
those years when I lived in this city, I resided in the vibrant Yeoville, the
rainbow suburb of Johannesburg known for its cultural diversity and a colourful
suburb that attracts intellectual artists and tourists. But, on this weekend, I
was seeing the inner city with completely new eyes. There was solid evidence
that this was a dynamic, reborn city, with new constructions, upgraded parks
and roads. One thing that touched me was the cleanliness of the streets, a
plain sign that Johannesburg is being re-developed into a world class city, a
place that Africa can be proud of.
With
this intense regeneration in the recent years, the city has rapidly gained an
unbelievable pulse, establishing itself firmly on the international tourism map
as an exciting destination.
Founded
in 1886, Johannesburg is the heart of the biggest economy in Africa, and
continues to pull immigrants from the rest of the country, the African
continent and beyond. Garner writes in his book: “Possibly Johannesburg’s
biggest claim to fame is that it was the home town of both Nelson Mandela and
Mahatma Ghandi for many years.”
The
history of Johannesburg is written in long scrolls, ranging from the early
years when the territory was inhabited by the San people (Bushmen), to the
periods when the Bantu-speaking people started moving in, finally to the
discovery of gold in the 1880s, and the movements of mining investors and
personnel, traders and white settlers.
South
Africans of all races came through the brutal times of wars, racial
discrimination and apartheid. Indeed all of this is history, as the
Johannesburg of today is described as a giant three-legged pot of
multi-nationalities and cultures.
Meetings,
introductions and speeches over, media representatives then set out on an
eye-opening tour of the revived JoBurg.
Sandwiched
between Braamfontein and Hillbow is the historical Constitution Hill precinct,
where the South African Constitutional Court (highest court in the country on
constitutional matters) is located. This is also the site of the notorious Old
Fort Prison Complex, the infamous Number 4 Prison and the Women’s Jail. A tour
offers a quick time travel into the past, revealing the inhumane conditions of
the apartheid era.
The
refurbished streets and new structures in the Braamfrontein that was once my
domicile left me totally awestruck. The ‘Neighbourgoods Market’ was a delight
to visit. Stretching over two floors, it operates only on Saturdays. A wide
range of delicacies and lip-smacking fresh foods are cooked in front of the
customer, with a good variety of wines available to accompany the meal. The
atmosphere is warm, friendly and busy, with a diverse throng of visitors.
“This
is the place where people come on Saturdays,” said Rob Young, a vendor at
Granny Furcey’s Pantry standing behind the counter offering chutneys and
pickles… “We interact well with our customers and business is good.” He believed
the market has wholly transformed the lifestyle in Braamfontein.
Johannesburg
is known as the creative hub of South Africa, attracting many people active in
the arts, theatre, broadcasting, publishing, film and TV production. Downtown
Newtown is a throbbing hub of arts and culture. Strolling down the city
streets, you will see young dancers and singers, visual artists, photographers,
a huge variety of artists at work. Theatre performances can be seen at the
Market Theatre, music events at Bass Line, and art exhibitions at Museum Africa
and Joburg Art Gallery, to mention only a few.
The
Turbine Hall has a very interesting history. Also located in Newtown, it
started its life as a power station built to supply electricity to the city.
Due to economical hiccups, the station was shut down in 1961. When the inner
city degraded in the 1970s, due to the migration of businesses to Sandton, the
Turbine Hall became a home for squatters. At that time, it was the shame of the
city, a structure that everyone wished could be imploded to create space for
better developments.
Today,
the Forum Company has preserved and redesigned the Turbine Hall, transforming
it into a five-star, first-class conference and events facility. It remains a
heritage building that represents a truly iconic South African architectural
style.
Café@50
is situated on the top floor of the impressive Carlton Centre (now branded
Transnet), the tallest building in Africa. Here on ‘the roof of Africa’,
tourists can enjoy a 360-degree view of Johannesburg, the best an African city
can offer. The incredible vista of the dense cityscape can be enjoyed with a
relaxed mood and scrumptious food.
At
Joburg’s Ethiopian corner, called ‘Little Addis’, I felt the pulse of the heart
of Africa.
Within
the Fashion District, on the east-end of town, lies the Fashion Kapitol. Garner
states in his book that the magnetism of this place is perhaps caused by the
fact that it constantly defies the odds, proving that even the shabbiest,
dirtiest parts of town can be transformed into wonderment.
At
the Fashion Kapitol, we found a fashion show in progress. The models were
displaying creative designs by first and second year fashion students at
SEWAFRICA. As a devotee of good art, I marvelled at the creativity and sheer
innovation of the garments on parade.
At
the Anglo-American Campus, located on Main Street Mall, on the west-end of
town, we walked – to my judgment – the cleanest streets in the inner city I had
thus far seen. The cheerful, magnificent and obviously well maintained gardens
sparkled with a fresh luxuriance. It was in these splendid landscapes where I
found Joburg’s most famous sculpture – ‘Impala
Stampede’, or ‘Leaping Impala’,
as it is popularly known.
Our
walkabout took us through the Ghandi Square. On a cold Saturday morning, the
plaza was somewhat lackadaisical, a very relaxed and laid-back mood. Here a
robust statue of Mahatma Ghandi stands in the middle of the square, and the power within this place
could be felt in the air.
One by one, the preconceived notions slipped away, as we continued our
tour.
Asked to comment on the inner city’s high crime rate and how it has
changed, Mr. Shaun O’Shea, from Office of the City Manager, said: “We are
aware of the incidences of crime in certain pockets of the inner city and the
Office of the City Manager has taken action to address these issues. These
include the placement of over 300 CCTV cameras throughout the CBD, which are
linked to a central command centre with immediate South African Police Service
(SAPS) and Johannesburg Metropolitan Police Department (JMPD) response units.
“In addition, the city has recently rolled out the ‘Joburg 10 Plus’
programme, which includes the deployment of 10 Metro police officers in each
city ward. The region also has a special investigations and legal task team,
who act in partnership with SAPS, National Prosecution Authaority (NPA), the
Hawks and other role players actively involved in addressing serious crime,
such as building hijackings.”
This year’s International
Congress and Convention Association (ICCA) rankings placed Johannesburg 142nd
in the world, and third in Africa, after Cape Town and Nairobi (first and
second places respectively). In one year’s time,
the city has jumped an astounding 92 places.
This momentous climb is
harbinger of the changes in attitudes and perceptions JCTA is hoping to instil,
in both the local community and the world. If that important shift takes place,
the City of Gold could become one of the world’s most sought after – and enjoyed
- tourist destinations.